Cycling On Rabbit Island: The Magical Mapua Ferry Trip

February 2012
[by Ian Miller]

You are about to embark on a short sea voyage. Yes, it is true that not many cycling trips involve a boat ride but this civilised adventure does take you aboard a splendid craft, The Floating Fairy, which commutes back and forth across the Mapua estuary outlet.

Here in New Zealand it is not common now to have river ferries, although one operates at Tuapeka where it crosses the mighty Clutha River. Mapua's Floating Fairy probably wouldn't make it across the Clutha but it is providing good service by taking cyclists and walkers across the estuary from Mapua to Rabbit Island and back. Although very functional the Floating Fairy is unfortunately a most inelegant and utilitarian looking boat.

In Australia I have made ferry crossings with my bike over two rivers on barges that are operated by the local councils. They charge vehicles but not cyclists, but here we have to pay as the ferry is operated just for the benefit of cyclists and walkers.

The Floating Fairy is a marvelous addition to the local scene, opening up a whole new area for easily accessible recreation to those of us who live north of Appleby and for Nelsonians who like the thought of cycling to Mapua. It is already breathing new life into the Mapua economy and once the national cycle trail is completed will most likely bring a new crop of tourists and their wallets north to Motueka.

Taking the ferry is an absolutely ideal way to have an enjoyable easy ride around Rabbit and Rough Islands, and I recommend you take a picnic lunch with you as there are places you can tuck yourself away in behind the beach or there are picnic tables scattered around the place for those getting too stiff in the joints to sit on the ground.

Currently the Mapua ferry is operating on the hour but if there are a few of you in a group it is very likely they will take you across in between scheduled trips. You can phone them at 779 (027 GO FERRY) and check their timetable.

The ferry is well designed to do the job and it is easy to push your bike across the shore and onto or off the boat. On board there are well designed racks that hold the bikes and almost enough seats for all the passengers. If the ferry is full you and your bike may not have an official place to park but it doesn't matter as the trip only takes a few minutes, including a brief excursion up or down the estuary for a mini sightseeing cruise on the way across.

You can start by parking on the road to Grossi Point and riding to the wharf area to catch the ferry which operates from the river bank just downstream of the jetty. Once over on the island the cycle tracks are signposted and it is possible to circumnavigate most of Rabbit Island, although on the far side of Rabbit Island from Mapua there is some soft sand on the track which means you will have to thoroughly clean your bike chain afterwards.

It's a fun ride though, and I have ventured off track and followed the estuary edge right around until I came out on a short road leading back to the main road. It might be a bit rough for most people but friends and I have enjoyed the ride.

For the less foolhardy, follow the main road through the centre of the Rabbit Island, along the cycle trail beside it and turn in to Rough Island. Follow the dusty gravel road until you get to a large open area on your left. If you ride across that away from the road there is a good track between the waters edge and the equestrian facilities.

By now you are across the water from the estuary end of Hoddy Road and it is a great view of a familiar area from a different angle. The distant hills behind set up an impressive backdrop and it's well worth making the trip for the view alone.

Carry on along this track until you can go no further, then continue riding around the perimeter of Rough Island where you will come across the tidal river that separates the two islands. Follow your nose until you come to a large deep pool of very black water on the inland side of the track.

Two choices offer shortly after this pond. The brave and the foolish can continue along the banks of the tidal river and risk mud and excitement, while the more sensible of you can turn inland and follow a track back to the access road into Rough Island.

Cycle east back to Rabbit Islands' main beach and back to the ferry or turn left into a gravel road (Bulivant Road) that heads in the direction of Mapua and follow it along and see where you end up. In theory you should end up on the track back to the ferry's departure point, but you might enjoy turning right into Barnicoat Road and heading back towards the beach.

Some of these tracks might be a little rough for genteel folk and after rain there may be some mud, but most will easily survive and probably enjoy the experience. I just like poking about and am prepared to back track on occasions so it doesn't worry me where I end up - within reason. At times some of the roads will be closed for logging or where the effluent irrigation system is being used. In my experience it doesn't smell unless you go into banned areas where you shouldn't go anyway. Then it really pongs.

If you fancy a sophisticated lunch or coffee you can either cycle right off the island and back towards the main road just north of Appleby and call into Seifrieds Vineyard cafe, or carry on straight ahead over the main road and ride along Redwood Road to the Moutere Highway, turn right and pedal a short distance until you get to the beautifully maintained gardens and renovated church that is Stoneridge café.

Of course there are plenty of choices for refreshments around the Mapua Wharf once you return to the mainland and my favourite is the Boat Shed café bar in the Mapua Leisure Park.

From there, if you haven't had enough cycling you can always ride to the Mapua School and turn right just before you get to it and cycle the track to the beach. Turn north at the coast and ride along to the narrow track between Broadsea Avenue and the coastal rock wall, do a loop around it and perhaps come back by way of the footpath and cycleway alongside the main road. Just past the Mapua Tavern on the same side of the road is a reserve that is being developed and it's worth a quick cycle round just so you know what is going on there.

Anyway it's back to the car after a pretty relaxed and not very strenuous day. When you get home don't forget to clean the sand from your bike chain, otherwise it will start to grind itself away on your next ride. Oil and sand make a very efficient grinding paste.

Here is the Rabbit Island Map. You may not want to ride every road marked. Just cycle what you want to because after all it's about enjoying the ride and not ticking off every byway on Rabbit Island.

Did you know .....

The Waimea Inlet is the largest enclosed estuary in the South Island, at 3455 hectares in area and has 14 islands within it. The estuary has an internal coastline of 65 kilometres between Tahunanui and Mapua with 22 rivers and streams draining into it. It's no wonder the water rushes in and out past Mapua as approximately 6,200,000m3 of water flow in and out of it every day. (From Nelson and Tasman council websites.)

The Clutha River was first crossed by rowing boats until community agitation for the establishment of a punt at Tuapeka Mouth was successful in 1895. The Tuapeka Mouth Ferry, also commonly referred to as the Tuapeka Mouth Punt, was officially opened on 22 February 1896. The punt is still operational today and operates on an established schedule when conditions are suitable.

The Tuapeka Mouth punt.	Some of the crowd on board the Floating Fairy.
Easy on and easy off	The Floating Fairy makes a turn at full throttle.
Come on ... just jump for it ...	The foreboding black water pond on Rough Island.

MORE CYCLING TRIPS: This is the seventh of a series of articles written by Ian Miller about various suggested cycle routes in and around Motueka for recreational cyclists. Read his other articles here »