An ideal garden for self-sufficiency in vegetables

by Grant Douglas,
April 27th 2011
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This article presents what I think is an ideal garden picture for a grower who is trying to be as self-sufficient in vegetables as possible. Remember it's only an ideal and whatever you have done is better than not having done anything at all.

ASPARAGUS - if you have an asparagus bed, it will be nearly time to cut down the old ferns and feed the bed in preparation for next year's growth. A light dressing of sea-salt is considered beneficial.

BEANS (Broad) - I personally think it is too early to sow Broad-beans as you will only get excessive growth with poor pod set, so hold off until at least early June.

BEETROOT - You should have sufficient, ready to eat, in the ground where you can pull it over the Winter, or else in bottles.

SILVERBEET AND PERPETUAL SPINACH - Sufficient quantity ready to be picked to last you through the Winter and Spring, when it will bolt (not a lot of growth will happen during the mid-Winter.

BRASSICAS (Cabbage, Cauli, Broccoli - appropriate varieties) - up to 5 successions of these in the garden. The most mature almost ready for picking, with the smallest still in the seed-trays ready for planting out for picking in the spring. All of them kept clean of caterpillars, which should not be around very much longer.

BRUSSEL SPROUTS - Tall plants (may need staking) with sprouts beginning to form, which will size up over the Winter.

CARROTS - Sufficient in the ground to see you through the Winter and if you have been able to get hold of some appropriate Spring variety, a small sowing now for time of year when most carrots bolt.

CHINESE CABBAGE AND OTHER CHINESE GREENS - A direct sowing of a succession from those ready to eat to half-mature plants and further sowings could be made either in soil or containers in the greenhouse, or under cloches.

CELERY, CELERIAC - Should be well grown by now, as not a lot of growth will happen during the cooler times, but keep celery very well fed.

GARLIC - If you prefer early planting, like myself, your Garlic will have just gone in but otherwise any time from now through to Mid Winter. Don't forget you can pre-grow the cloves in separate pottles or six-pack punnets - they transplant well.

KUMERA - Store in a well-ventilated, warm, dry environment, ensuring that any damaged tubers are eaten first and if possible, avoid contact between tubers, as rot spreads very quickly.

LEEKS - Once again, should be well grown by now, but if you have been picking them from late Summer, better to have a couple of successions so that the first planting doesn't get too mature before they are used.

LETTUCE - A number of successions in the ground with the last one being a large planting so that you have sufficient to pick during the Winter when growth slows right down. As with the Chinese Greens, these can also be successfully grown indoors or under cloches during the Winter.

MESCALIN MIX - Succession sowings, with protection for later ones.

ONION (Red/White) - Don't sow yet, but wait another 6 weeks, and then choose a slow-bolting variety.

SPRING ONIONS - One last planting, before the weather gets too cold.

PARSNIP - Should be well enough grown for picking. They will be getting sweeter with the cold weather.

POTATOES - Stored in ground if your soil is not too cold and heavy, otherwise lifted and stored in a cool, airy, dark environment.

PUMPKIN - Well stored, in a dry airy situation. Eat Squashes first, as they will not keep as well as true Pumpkins.

RADISH - Still time for a couple of sowings before the weather gets too cold and then probably in Greenhouse.or under cloche.

SPINACH - Similar to Chinese Greens or Lettuce. Successions sowing outside and then switch to protected environment when weather gets cold.

YAMS - Dig when tops are frosted or yams are sufficiently big. Store the same as potatoes.